My first post concerns my and Jordan Liberty’s trip to US new-comer Inglot on 48th and Broadway in New York City. First impressions are that it’s very cool. It’s a glass-encased corner store off of the main bustle of Times Square. It’s fairly small, featuring one large center island and two walls of products.

My focus while I was there was the polishes, where Inglot started before branching out into makeup. They have a large display with all their polishes neatly arranged by colors, glitters, and mattes, then above they have their special O2 line.

The manager was very quick to offer me assistance, which was great, but she didn’t seem very well educated as to the particulars of the products. When I asked about the O2 polish line, she could only really tell me that it allowed the nail to breathe, which other polishes didn’t, and that there were no chemicals in it (which certainly isn’t true, as ALL products have chemicals in them, I can only assume she means there are fewer relatively harmful chemicals). She wasn’t really able to provide me an adequate reason why that was actually necessary, so I decided to skip on those products ($14 a pop).

Their regular polishes, though, offer a delightfully large range of colors and finishes, so I was more than eager to explore them ($10 each). I’ve really been into purples lately, so I picked out a vibrant deep purple with shimmer (#940) and a matte lavender shade (#708). I also allowed myself to be talked into the Techno UV Coat ($9), a tester of the Nail Enamel Remover ($2), and Dry & Shine ($9).

I have to say, I’m quite impressed with how well the polishes go on. They are thinner in consistency than Essie and OPI, my usual standbys. That doesn’t mean, though, they are watery like most thinner formulations. The coat is as pigmented as any thicker polish with less product and the application is very smooth and even–the colors are true to the bottle, just slightly translucent after the first coat.

The Techno UV Coat is a great top coat, very lustrous, smooth and shiny. It turns the matte polish into a nice glossy finish. I haven’t tried out its purported UV reactive properties, but it does brighten the polish up slightly. It’s a small change, but a valuable one if you’re into it.

The Dry & Shine is ah-maz-ing! Literally it goes on, sits for like 5 seconds, and your polish is dry. Best I’ve used, really. And it turns the matte polish into a nice satin finish.

The remover is okay. Definitely removes the polish quickly, but the full size is $9, which is a little steep for polish remover. I’ll stick to my Sally Hansen and elbow grease.

All and all, a pleasant experience, though mostly for the products and not the shopping experience. The service was passive aggressively pushy and not well educated–the manager couldn’t even figure out how to open the train case they have on display. I do wish there was an explanatory write up in the boxes, as I like to know how and why my products work, or at least an on-line description.

Definitely I recommend a trip, as they have no website to order from (a shocking oversight!) and you can’t get it from any other vendors that I know of, and there’s some awesome unique products to be had.

The new line of liquid foundation consists of eighteen oil-free shades, six of which are corrective tones that help you to create an unlimited range of customized colors. They are housed in squeeze tubes for convenience, but the removable tips allow for faster mixing. At just $12.50 CAN (About $12.00 USD), the 8.5 ml (1/4oz) tubes really are the perfect size and price for makeup artists.

At first glance, the colors were a little jarring (separated into pink, neutral, and golden tones), which further proved that this is a line that really relies on artistry – meaning your foundations need to be mixed to maximize results. ‘Buff’ is a gorgeous neutral that tones down other colors well (and actually looks fabulous when I wear it alone as a foundation). ‘Daisy’ is a must-have corrector. This white shade is great for lightening other colors, and has quickly become a go-to product for me on set.

Once you’ve created your unique foundation shade, application is a treat. This foundation glides effortlessly over the skin, providing full coverage without the cakey look of heavier formulas. The finish isn’t overly shiny or matte, which makes it easy to customize with a setting powder or lumizer.

Bottom line? This is a great option for liquid lovers. And while I’m not a huge fan of mixing (I think the line needs just a few more shades), the results speak for themselves. At $12.00 this foundation packs a mighty punch, rivaling its competitors bearing price tags in the high $30’s. Another big win for this small Canadian line!

You can find this fabulous foundation along with many other great products on the Yaby website.

MAC Dazzleglass: This is my favorite MAC product by a long shot. These fashion-forward colors light up your lips with the most intense crystal-like sheen I’ve ever seen!

Essence Cosmetics ‘Moonlight’ Collection Glitter Set: Essence makes some of the best drugstore makeup I’ve ever seen – and their set of three loose glitters (black, pink, and silver) is no exception. For $3 USD a set, it’s the most economic way to glitz and glam your look! Mix with other products or use alone over eye primer or sprinkled in hair. In the USA, Essence can now be found at select ULTA stores.

NARS ‘Taiga’ Shadow Duo and ‘Orgasm’ Blush: NARS never ceases to amaze me, and their new ‘Taiga’ Shadow Duo is rich with golden shimmer. And who could forget ‘Orgasm’ blush? Not the best pick for photography on its own, but ‘Orgasm’ looks fantastic over top of a bronzer or lightly swept over the upper cheekbones.

Make Up For Ever Diamond Powder: Make Up For Ever has an enormous range of shimmers that can be used for almost anything! Their Diamond Powders offer fantastic payoff with intense shine, worn alone or layered. ‘White Gold 2’ is a gorgeous golden glitter that looks fantastic on the cheeks!

Urban Decay Heavy Glitter Eyeliner: A cult classic, Urban Decay makes glitter a cinch with 12 shades that light up your look! Use over your liner for more punch, or paint over shadow or lashes for super-shimmery drama.

Bourjois Effet 3D Cosmic Lipgloss: This gloss packs punch! An In-Style “Best Beauty Buy,” the Bourjois Effet 3D glosses deliver superior shimmer in an ultra-smooth formula.

No stranger to celebrity bourgeois, Anthony is strangely earthbound. A conversation with him usually consists of shop talk and gossip, rarely ending in celebrity dirt (although, I’m convinced he could start a glitterati-smackdown that would rival Perez Hilton any day). So when Anthony expressed interest in being featured on my blog, I saw it only fit to wring him out in an effort to get all ten of my readers some solacious celebrity gossip.

Jordan Liberty, GGF: So I know we were talking earlier this week about the Skingraft show you’re keying for LA Fashion Week, can you fill our readers in on the project?

Anthony: When Skingraft approached me with their new collection, we discussed their inspiration, which was ‘Joan of Arc meets Amelia Earheart.’ We designed a woman that is strong, does the jobs that women shouldn’t do, and empowers. They express that not through their makeup – but really their accomplishments. We came up with this fresh, strong, boyish look for the runway show.

GGF: Aside from the runway work, what are your favorite jobs to do?

Anthony: Variety! I love being able to do a commercial one day, a fashion shoot the next day, and every year I try to take low budget film. I call it my “favor” because I believe todays students are tomorrows filmmakers.

GGF: Yeah, I saw that you did a gay slasher film last year, what was that like?

Anthony: I just did the opening sequence, it was like 60’s dancers singing ‘Watch Out for the Straights’ [laughs] – which was probably the best part of the movie. But yeah that was fun, I created 4 looks from like Phyllis Diller to Nancy Sinatra – it was a blast.

GGF: Your best celebrity spill? I demand dirt.

Anthony: I can’t do that. I would only do that if they were dead [laughs].

GGF: Any deceased divas you want to share about?

Anthony: I don’t know…is June Lockheart still alive?

GGF: Not sure. Want to dish anyway?

Anthony: Hold on let me make sure if she’s alive or not [googles]. I mean honestly, I’ve had a really good experience with almost everybody.

GGF: And by almost, you’re referring to?

Anthony: Most people are nice to the makeup artists. I mean, you’re touching their face. It’s the unwritten part of our job to be everybody’s friend. [The celebrities] realize that part of your job is watching their back, so it’s hard to trash anybody. When I arrive at a job, I try to be the best friend of everyone I’m working on. The other thing you have to realize is a lot of these celebrities work crazy, crazy hours and do a lot of emotional things. Or they have off days like anyone else. You just have to be very neutral with it.

GGF: Whatever I’m so disappointed in you.

Anthony: Oh [laughs loudly], Oh I don’t – ok. I did makeup for Glynis Johns. She’s hugely famous on broadway, she was in Superstar, and she was the mother in Mary Poppins [more laughing]. So Glynis was very sick when I had to do her makeup for the Disney Live Action thing. Instantly she crushes up a vicodin and takes it. And we’re talking…and she’s explaining how to do her makeup. [She] forgets she took a vicodin and takes another. I think by the end of doing her makeup she had taken about six — and I kindly tried to mention to her ‘I think you’ve taken several of those, are you alright?’ And she got a little defensive, so I left it alone.

So they put her on camera and they start interviewing her about Mary Poppins, and she’s high as a kite. She starts saying she likes fairies and can see them everywhere, and is angry at the producer because he couldn’t see them. She was high as a kite [laughs] and she’s like eighty, well, pushing ninety. So they interviewed her for like two hours and couldn’t get a straight answer from her. The producer was bright red angry, and it was even worse because I made him buy her a bouquet of flowers. I told him that she was this huge icon and we needed to give her this star treatment – yadda yadda. Afterwards he just wanted to beat her with the flowers.

GGF: How would you describe your personal style?

Anthony: I’ve always been a street chic kinda guy. Um, I like anything that has an edge to it. I love punk and goth. I mean when I die and like come back – like reincarnated, I’m gonna be a goth chick [laughs]. I’m just awed by them. The makeup, the fashion – they’re awesome.

GGF: And your favorite designer?

Anthony: Um, well – I like a lot of the old designers. Like Stephen Sprouse and Norma Kamali. I have a thing for vintage designers.

GGF: What’s your current makeup obsession?

Anthony: I’m obsessed with models with bleached eyebrows. It just forces me to look.

GGF: Oh my God, a man after my own heart.

Anthony: Prada just did one – it was amazing. It was like 5 girls with bleached brows. Hold on I’m looking at it right now.

GGF: I love that ad, it’s fantastic.

Anthony: Oh Sonia Rykiel’s new collection is genius [flips pages]. Hold on I just bought the new Italian Vogue. Oh here it is. – the Prada ad with the frizzy hair and they all have no eyebrows. And the shimmery faces. And even Armani. But Prada is more of that dirty eye I was talking about last year. I love Prada. Valentino did it as well.

GGF: French Vogue is my absolute favorite.

Anthony: Yeah I couldn’t find French Vogue so I bought Italian Vogue instead. I love French Vogue, Italian Glamour, Oyster from Australia, and Dansk. Those are my “refer-to” mags.

GGF: In your opinion, what’s the worst makeup cliché or trend?

Anthony: The only thing that has ever really driven me crazy was ‘twig and spice’ in the 90’s. ‘Twig’ lipstick and ‘Spice’ liner by MAC covered in gloss. Everyone wore that lip with a smoky eye. And you could see it on the street.

Like ‘oh, twig and spice.’

‘How’d you know?’

It was like a greasy pork chop face. You couldn’t miss it. That bothered me after a while. But interesting always gets my attention. I think that anyone who dares to do something different catches my eye. I always respect people who dare to try something new. And especially with makeup – because it washes off.

GGF: You define classic and timeless makeup as:

Anthony: I would think, is any makeup that you could wear in any era and it passes. Beautiful is beautiful.

GGF: Favorite meal of the day?

Anthony: Breakfast.

GGF: Me too!

Anthony: Oh my God, I could eat breakfast all day long. I eat breakfast for dinner half the time too. We’re gonna have to go have breakfast [laughs] – I love breakfast.

GGF: Next time I’m in LA – you’re on.

Anthony: I make a mean breakfast too. French toast, bacon, sausage patties, potatoes, eggs…oh I make great breakfast. I’m like the king of breakfast [laughs]. That, and the grill, I have a grill in the backyard and no one touches it but me.

GGF: A lot of green artists ask me for advice, as I’m sure they do you. What advice can you give newer artists?

Anthony: Especially if they’re young, I tell them to move to Italy. Go live in Milan. For a year – get in the heart of fashion. Be a big fish in a small place. If I could start all over again, it would have been in Italy.

GGF: What advice do you have about free/test shoots?

Anthony: [Nervous laugh]

GGF: I had to ask. I know.

Anthony: Um…wow. What advice do I have about test shoots… Well my friend Cooper would tell you to say ‘yes’ to everything, because you don’t know what opportunities might come from those experiences. And I think that’s fine when you’re new. So say ‘yes’ to everything. At every [test] you’ll learn something new. Soon you’ll realize you need to bump and test with better photographers. If you do it a lot when you’re new, you’ll have a huge arsenal of contacts later on in your career.

GGF: Any epic last words?

Anthony: Actually I have a great quote. Its on my facebook page, I want it carved on my gravestone. Here, I’ll read it to you.

“Life is not a journey to the grave with the
intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming — WOW– What a Ride!”

GGF: Who said that?

Anthony: I have no idea.

(For the record, the original quote was by Bill McKenna (motorcyclist) in 1982, and went like this: “Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid across the line broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, leaking oil, shouting GERONIMO!” but has since been changed  and is now cited as ‘anonymous.’)

So why not rock a red lip? There’s a perfect red out there for every woman, from sheer and mild to rich and wild. In fact, back in the day, almost every woman wore red lipstick (and even straight men, I swear). Thin lips? A sheer wash of any bright color can instantly give your lips more pout – and a deep red can make any large lip look more defined and sexy!

I’m going to be bold and start by saying in all capital letters: DO NOT USE RED LIP LINER!

Instead, dab a little concealer around the lip line and follow with a nude lip liner (this shade should match the deepest color in your lip). Line your lips (with your mouth closed, smiling to pull the lip tight) and lightly fill your entire lip as well. Nude liner is really all a woman needs, it looks great with every color and never looks out-dated and ‘drawn.’

When choosing a finish for your lips, keep in mind the amount of maintenance you’re willing to put in. A lip stain, for example, will stain your lips red for the entire day without the need for touchups (or even lip liner). However, the color often doesn’t have the impact, shine, or depth of a lipstick. Matte red lipsticks are classic and timeless, but I prefer to use matte reds only when my client’s skin is hydrated and dewy. Matte on matte looks great in photos; not at the office. A satin lipstick will give you a natural shine and sheer to rich color, and is probably your best option for daily use. Of course, I’m a huge fan of red gloss over red lips (see photo), there’s nothing sexier than a perfect slick crimson!!!

Try applying your lipstick with your fingers. This melts the color into the lip, giving your pout a ‘bitten’ look that looks oh-so-chic!

Also, give your matte red more dimension with a touch of clear gloss in the center of your bottom lip!

Some of my favorite red lipsticks include:
‘Jungle Red’ by NARS
‘Legendary’ by Smashbox
‘Revolution’ by Urban Decay (pictured)
‘Ignition’ by Vincent Longo
‘Box’ by Illamasqua
‘No. 9′ by Armani Cosmetics
‘Russian Red’ by MAC
‘Red No. 5′ by Chanel
‘#17 Rouge’ by Bourjois

Followed by glosses:
‘Starlit’ and ‘Siren’ by Smashbox (’Siren’ pictured)
‘Guys Love Betsy’ by Urban Decay
‘NSFW’ by Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
‘Turbulent’ by H.I.P.
‘Glossy Full #1′ by Make Up For Ever
‘Strawberry Smoothie’ by Dior

Feel free to comment or write in with photos of your best reds!

Modeled by Karla Jae
Makeup by Jordan Liberty
Photo by Jonathan Sorber

Additional Sources: Wikipedia

At first glance, the shadows are small and unimpressive in size, but the vast range of colors in the ‘Best of Both Worlds’ palette is noteworthy. The pre-set palette contains several formulas of eyeshadow, including her highly reviewed ‘pearl paints,’ a creamy pearl shadow that boasts waterproof staying power and pigment that remains true on camera and video.

When applied softly, the shadows cover the lid in a wash of color, and are easily built to a richer shade using a stiffer brush. The pearl paint shades offer an almost frosty texture without crumbly fallout underneath the eyes. I must say, the colors in this palette really do offer up the best of both worlds – from nude matte to bright teal. If you’re a makeup artist in need of inexpensive pro products, this is certainly a good starting point. And while I wish the shadows were a tad larger, the bang for your buck is still incredible – and well worth your investment.

Yaby Palette

Source: yabycosmetics.com
Photo of model taken by Jonathan Sorber, Makeup by Jordan Liberty
Shadows Used:
pp049
pp047
pp013
es192

Every woman wants to hear that she’s pretty – and I agree – but not every woman is a model. Real modeling is real work, and as ugly as it sounds, models need to fit a specific standard. Like any business, a model’s job has requirements and standards that need to be adhered to in order to succeed.

First and foremost, you need to have a mind for business. Modeling is 2/3 business and 1/3 how you look, so don’t think that just because people call you pretty that you can get away with being a flake. Treat your image as if it were a product; market it, package it, shine it up, and sell it. Agencies can be a great way to get your name on the map, but be weary of any agency that asks for a check – no matter how they dress it up – an agency is not there to take your money. A good agent will get employers to pay you, which is how they earn a commission.

Secondly, you need to know your look. Fashion models are generally tall, very slender, and have a very strong bone structure and piercing facial features. Commercial models have a more ‘girl next door’ look, and often take an interest in acting, television, or sales. What I call ‘Maxim’ models generally have a larger bust, a soft face, and take an interest in swimwear, lingerie, and implied nude work. And then there’s genre or niche models, these models almost exclusively appeal to a specific demographic (ie: gothic, heavyset, fetish, etc.).

Get some real opinions on this. Just because you see yourself as a fashion model – it doesn’t mean you are!

The next step is proper grooming and maintenance. This may seem like an obvious expectation, but many hobbyist models let themselves go without grooming under the assumption that a stylist (or retoucher) will fix their chipped nails later on. Not always the case. Again, thinking like a business person, would you pay for a product that was dirty, unkept, or improperly maintained? When arriving on set, assume the following:

Your roots should be touched up and hair color/style should match your most recent comp card, portfolio, or website photos unless you have already notified the casting director or whomever is organizing the event. Hair should be in good order, healthy, recently trimmed, and the style should be versatile enough to manipulate into anything the client needs for his particular project. Always show up on set with clean, dry hair unless otherwise noted.

You should not be wearing any makeup to the shoot, and your skin should be clean and moisturized. A model needs to have good skin, so make sure that you’re regularly exfoliating in addition to your daily skincare regimen. Notify the client if you have any abnormal skin conditions, allergies, or are victimized by a sudden acne breakout before the event. It’s a good idea to bring your own face towel, cleanser, makeup remover, and moisturizer to prevent any reactions to the makeup artist’s kit cleanser.

Eyebrows should be plucked or waxed, facial hair should be removed, nails should be trim and neat (manicured or painted), and any piercings that are not in the lobes (particularly facial) should be removed unless noted by the client.

Bring a mix of clothing and accessories (on hangers wherever possible), even if wardrobe is being provided.

Most importantly, a model should care for her body. Drink lots of water, eat well, and exercise – a model’s body is her calling card and career!

Lastly, always remember that this is a business – be on time (or early), be proactive, be professional, and be grateful!

‘Basic Products For Your Kit’
Sandra Gata

Do you ever wonder if you really need another mascara or beautiful lipgloss? Maybe you just started with make up and you’re still not sure about what basic products you need or which items you should really invest in. Well that’s okay! I’ve made a simple review of my essential products (at a reasonable price) to help start your own basic makeup kit.

The first thing you need is a quality foundation: A good foundation is absolutely essential, so choose one with a creamy texture if your skin is dry, or a fluid oil-free foundation if your skin is oily. ALWAYS match the colour of your skin (not darker or lighter), you don’t want to look like you’re wearing a mask!

A concealer is also very important! Concealers work to correct the dark circles below your eyes and any other blemishes you may have. Choose a colour that is slightly lighter than your skin with a heavier texture that will cover very well.

Blush gives the skin a healthy appearance. I recommend you invest in two different shades so you can mix, match, and create different looks. For example: one pink and one peach – both of those colours look great with all skin tones. If you can only buy one, choose your favourite or whichever one will compliment your skin the best.

A good eye pencil works well to make your eyes stronger and to give the appearance of fuller eyelashes. You may choose brown if you are blond and your eyes are light, but in my opinion your best bet is always black, no matter the colour your hair is!

Mascara is a basic product that you can purchase in 3 basic basic tones: black, brown and transparent. As I mentioned with the eye pencil, your best bet is always black for definition. Choose a transparent mascara if your eyelashes are already thick and dark (and you’re not looking for any more intensity). Brown mascara is, again, for girls with very fair eyes and eyelashes.

Eyeshadow duos in pinks, peaches, or browns are another very basic product that you can use on a daily basis. Invest in this product! Duos provide you with two versions of a basic colour that blends with your skin, and at the same time makes the colour of your eyes pop! Apply the lighter colour to the eyelid and the darker to the crease (just under the brow bone), and blend them together very well!

A girl needs a good lipstick. Any self-respecting girl would not be found dead without a good lipstick in her purse! Choose your favourite colour – if you can’t decide, ask the shop assistant for help. There is a never-ending range of shades and colours to match all skin and hair colours that will make you look great! Take your time and choose the perfect lipstick, once you have the right one, it will never let you down.

Lastly, you need (at least) two basic brushes. Brushes are worth the investment, so try to look for the best because they will be with you for years. A medium size fluffy brush will work for applying blush – and another, smaller, fluffy brush for applying eyeshadows.

‘Tu Kit de Maquillaje Basico’
Sandra Gata

Seguro que muchas veces te preguntas si realmente necesitáis otra máscara u otro lipgloss, o a lo mejor, estás empezando a maquillarte y no sabes qué productos son necesarios y deberías adquirir. Pues bien, vamos a hacer un repaso de lo que considero productos básicos y a buen precio para crear tu kit de maquillaje básico.

Lo primero que vas a necesitar es una buena base: elige la base hidratante si tu piel es seca y la fluida si tu piel es más grasa. Siempre elige el tono de tu piel y ningún otro más, cuídate de elegir un tono más claro u otro más oscuro, no se trata de crear una máscara.

Un corrector también es importante, cubre las ojeras y otras imperfecciones de la piel. Elige un color, ahora sí, más claro, y cubriente.

Colorete, importantísimo para dar un efecto de buen aspecto. Te recomiendo que tengas al menos dos tonos para poder combinar: rosado y melocotón. Ambos colores quedan bien a todos los tonos de piel y son una inversión duradera. Si sólo puedes elegir uno, elige tu preferido.

Lápiz negro o marrón de ojos. Te servirá para delinear tus ojos y hacer más espesas tus pestañas. Elige marrón si eres muy rubia y de ojos muy claros y negro si tienes otro cualquier tono de pelo. En mi opinión, una apuesta segura es siempre el negro seas como seas.

La máscara de pestañas. Tres colores son básicos: transparente, negro y marrón. Tal y como pienso con el lápiz de ojos, una apuesta segura es el negro. Sólo elige el transparente en el caso de que tus pestañas sean muy oscuras y gruesas y no quieras añadirle más intensidad a tu mirada. El marrón, de nuevo para chicas con los ojos muy claros y pestañas claras

La sombra de ojos básica que podemos adquirir en mejor relación calidad/precio y que es una apuesta segura es una sombra de ojos en tonos rosados, melocotón o tostados en dúo. Ya sabes, uno más claro y otro más oscuro. El más claro lo aplicas en el párpado móvil y el más oscuro en la arruga del párpado, justo encima del hueso, creando un arco.

Por último, un lápiz de labios. Elige el color que más te guste, déjate asesorar en la tienda. Para cada color de piel y pelo, hay una gran gama de colores que te pueden quedar bien. Tómate tu tiempo y elige un color que te guste.

¡Ah! Y un par de brochas. Invierte en ellas, que sean buenas, te durarán muchos años. Una brocha de tamaño medio para aplicar el colorete y otra tamaño pequeño para aplicar la sombra de ojos.

Shu Uemura has always been one of my favorite lines, mostly due to its no-holds-barred approach to pigment and the dramatic. The line boasts a wild range of funky false lashes in their Tokyo Lash Bar, and is known for their appeal to pro makeup artists. How many lines can say they make a grass green, black, or true yellow lipstick?

This collection embodies the Shu look: audacious and whimsical with true quality and wearability. Turquoise and citrine ‘Painting Liners’ boast vividly on the advertisements and glide on smooth to the touch, while rich bronze and gold ‘Primal Color Sticks’ subtly add drama and warmth to the collection. I particularly love the mixed false lashes with hints of yellow and magenta!

With 6 all new eye colors, 3 blush duos, 2 lipstick shades and nail polishes, and a new addition to the Tokyo Lash Bar, Shu has (once again) re-established its reign as one of the most innovative and unafraid makeup lines on the market today.

Source: shuuemura-usa.com