Because these tutorials are like nothing else on the internet, they require a little explanation. You’ll notice that I am not speaking throughout the makeup application. This is for several reasons. First, because of the HD clarity, they require far less narration as the steps are much easier to follow visually. Also, because I am not demonstrating this application on myself (as so many bloggers do), we felt it would be too distracting for me to cut in with narration throughout the video. If you aren’t a visual learner, the video contains annotations that link back to this blog entry, which contains detailed instructions that can be saved and bookmarked (below).

Format:

After the new opening titles (aren’t the colors fantastic?), you’ll see a quick flash of the look and a difficulty level:

BASIC: Requires very little application skill.

INTERMEDIATE (this video): Requires a comfortable level of application skill.

PROFESSIONAL: Requires advanced application skills.

Because this look is a fashion look, it is not for beginners. However, because this look does not require much precision, it is not as difficult as a professional application.

Products used (listed in the video as well):

Yaby ‘Buff’ Liquid Foundation
Yaby ‘Daisy’ Corrector
Urban Decay “Good Karma” Blush Brush
Smashbox ‘Fair’ HD Concealer
Smashbox #4 Concealer Brush
Smashbox ‘Fair’ Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder
Red Earth Large Powder Brush
Paula Dorf Bronzing Fan Brush
Make Up For Ever Contour Kit #4
Smashbox Photo Finish Lid Primer
Smashbox ‘Caviar’ Cream Liner
Smashbox #15 Definer Brush
Make Up For Ever ‘Black 4′ Eyeshadow
Smashbox #10 Crease Brush
Smashbox ‘Cinnamon Toast’ Eyeshadow
Smashbox #3 Large Shadow Brush
Smashbox #20 Double-Ended Smudge Brush
Laura Mercier ‘Alloy’ Metallic Creme Color (NOT ‘PLATINUM’ as noted in the video)
Sonia Kashuk Spoolie
Smashbox ‘Midnight Black’ Jet Set Waterproof Gel Eyeliner
Smashbox #21 Arced Liner Brush
Givenchy Black Phenomen’Eyes Mascara
Ardell #120 False Eyelashes and White or Black Lash Adhesive
MAC ‘Dervish’ Lip Pencil
Make Up For Ever #22 Rouge Artist Intense Lipstick
Smashbox #6 Lip Brush

Instructions:

Step 1: Buff Foundation Over Prepped Skin This is a technique I use a lot to give the skin an airbrushed appearance. You’re literally using a fluffy brush to apply a liquid or cream product. Apply a dab of foundation to the back of your hand, dip the tip of your brush into the color, and apply to the face. Use light pressure and work in quick, tight circles. I use pressure in the video, but if you look, my model’s head isn’t jerking all over. Light pressure; don’t kill your model. Make sure you use a synthetic brush made of taklon or nylon as they are less likely to breed bacteria and are easier to clean. Also, wet products tend to destroy brushes. Synthetics hold up way better to moisture.

Step 2: Apply Concealer Joy has very little darkness under her eyes, and for most women, a cream concealer is way too heavy for the sensitive skin in that area. Using a liquid concealer, I’m lightly sweeping the color under her eyes using a flat concealer brush. Often times, I will use a fluffy brush to diffuse the product (usually with more mature skin), similar to how we applied the foundation. For an instant “lifted” look, apply concealer to the outer corners of the features. This de-emphasizes darkness that may make the face look tired. Also, lift the eyes by applying concealer over the brow. And of course, use concealer on any blemishes.

Step 3: Apply Powder Use a large brush to apply powder over the face and neck. Because makeup photographs differently than skin, it’s important to apply powder down the neck if your model will be the subject of a photo. I prefer a powder with color, as they provide additional coverage, but a translucent works fine as well. Also, I usually go for a powder with hydrating properties to prevent a sandy appearance.

Step 4: Define the Cheeks Repeat after me: less is more. Your goal is to create the illusion of depth with a subtle shadow. Contour shades should be on the cool side, which is why bronzers make terrible contour colors. Warm shades, like bronzers, can make the skin look dirty. Use a fan brush to add depth to the hollows of the cheekbones. Work fast and apply very little pressure to the brush. You want a soft wash of darker color, not a racing stripe.

Step 5: Prime the Eyelids Using Fingertips Eye primers enhance pigment colors, prevent creasing, and extend the wear of your shadow. Using concealer or foundation on the lids will not help with wear or creasing. Use fingertips to apply.

Step 6: Apply a Dark Base We’re not in Kansas, anymore! I’m starting our smoky eye with a black cream base. This is hands down the easiest way to create a deep smoky eye without any shadow falling on the cheeks. Use a blunt brush to pat cream liner on the lid from lash line to crease. This does not have to be perfect, but do your best. Do not extend the color past the end of the eye out onto the cheek.

Step 7: Follow With Eyeshadow Smoky does not always mean black. Smoky is a technique, not a color. For this video, I’m using a deep matte black, but a dark cabernet or navy look sensational! Use a fluffy brush to apply shadow right over the cream. First pat the color on, then blend. Work from lash line to crease, again, not extending higher than the crease or past the end of the brow.

Step 8: Apply Satin Eyeshadow To give our smoky eye an incredible metallic finish, we’re applying our lightest shade LAST. Use a large shadow brush to sweep the shadow from the lash line all the way to the brow. I used a satin taupe shade for this look. Use whatever color you like, just make sure you don’t choose a color too light.

Step 9: Define Lower Lash Line Use a smudge brush to drag the matte black shadow lightly across the lower lash line.

Step 10: Fill Brows One of my special touches on this look is the slightly metallic brow. Use a spoolie to run a generous amount of metallic creme color through the brow.

Step 11: Line the Eyes Use a liner brush to apply black gel liner across the upper lash line. Use a smudge brush or cotton swab to diffuse and soften the line by pulling the liner lightly upward and smudging.

Step 12: Apply Mascara Only apply ONE COAT of mascara (top and bottom lashes). We’ll apply one more coat after we apply false eyelashes. If you aren’t applying false eyelashes, go ahead and layer on the mascara as heavy as you like!

Step 13: False Eyelashes The key to applying false eyelashes is patience. Apply the glue, wait 30-45 seconds, then put the lashes on. Get them as close to your natural lash line as possible. Apply one more coat of mascara to blend the lashes with your own.

Step 14: Line and Fill the Lips Even though this is a nude lip, liner is necessary to keep the lips from disappearing into the face! Use a rose nude color to line and fill the lips.

Step 15: Apply Nude Lipstick Apply a creamy nude shade (from the tube or with a brush) to finish the look!

I hope you all enjoyed – can’t wait to bring you the next tutorial!!!

Videography: Jordan Liberty

Photography: Jonathan Sorber

Hair: Felipe’G

Wardrobe: Belle Morte

Privately held makeup brand’s digital and social media presence draws in cosmetic giant’s interest.

Cosmetics giant Estee Lauder announced Monday it had agreed to acquire the privately held makeup brand Smashbox Beauty Cosmetics.

Analysts said trendy Smashbox, based in Los Angeles, would help bring Estee Lauder – whose brands include Bobbi Brown, La Mer, and Aveda – younger customers. Estee Lauder also said it liked Smashbox’s Hollywood image (it was inspired by the needs of makeup artists working on photo shoots) and its digital and social media presence. The company – founded in 1996 by two great grandsons of legendary Hollywood makeup artist Max Factor – was among the first to post instructional videos on its website about how to achieve various makeup looks.

“We are excited to be acquiring a uniquely positioned cosmetics brand with true talent well known for engaging consumers,” John Demsey, a group president at Estee Lauder, said in a statement. “Smashbox fits perfectly within our DNA.”

No purchase price was given for the deal, which is expected to close in July, but Women’s Wear Daily sources estimated Estee Lauder paid somewhere between $200 and $300 million. The acquisition also includes a minority stake in Smashbox Studios, the Los Angeles photo facility the Factor brothers started in 1991.

“We like the brand and its photo-studio inspired, Hollywood positioning,” Lauder’s president and CEO Fabrizio Freda told WWD. “Smashbox operates in a selling environment that is of big interest to us, specialty retail, where we want to continue to grow.”

The acquisition will give Estee Lauder an expanded presence outside department stores, particularly in Sephora cosmetics stores and on the QVC Channel, where Smashbox ranks in the top 10 brands sold. A big chunk of Smashbox’s success is seen as owed to the Factor brothers’ willingness to take a chance on television sales in the late 1990s.

Smashbox will continue to operate out of its LA headquarters. BNET predicted the acquisition – if it follows the strategy of Estee Lauder’s buyouts of Aveda, Stila, and MAC – “should be another textbook case of big management leaving well enough alone…The only thing different about Smashbox should be its availability — certain to grow once Lauder’s resources start funding expansion.”

Smashbox pulls in about $80 million in wholesale revenue and $140 million in retail sales, a source told WWD. In 2006, private-equity firm TSG Consumer Partners acquired a minority stake in the company. Smashbox is Estee Lauder’s first acquisition since Leonard Lauder stepped aside in July for Freda to assume the CEO post.

And of course, I love her makeup! In her “Fighter” video, bold lashes mimic the look of moth’s wings, giving the video a strong aesthetic that is beautiful and haunting. “Dirrty” is a video I reference a lot with my personal makeup style. I’m a huge fan of smoldering eyes, and Christina rocked carbon black smoky eyes with flawless tan skin and a baby pink pout in that video. It was to die for. She is also a lover of red lips, which she has adorned in several videos as well as on the red carpet. This has given her dirty girl image a little Marilyn appeal, and I consider it her trademark.

Memorable Christina Looks.

Christina Aguilera "Not Myself Tonight" Video Stills.

Check out the video above, or the stills to the left. “Not Myself Tonight” is available for purchase on iTunes and is the leading single off her upcoming album “Bionic.”

What is it?:

The Makeup Mafia is an exclusive membership (like a street team, only way better) for makeup artists and beauty aficionados. Once you’ve joined, you’ll be eligible to enter makeup contests, receive inside information from our celebrity members, and get all the dirt on Give Good Face, the upcoming makeup book that demystifies makeup’s biggest secrets! You’ll also be eligible to attend meet-and-greets and makeup events as they become available! Once you’re in — YOU’RE IN!

Types of Memberships and How to Apply:

Mafia Member:

If you’re registered with givegoodface.com, you’re automatically a member. Otherwise, if you have a name and email address – you’re in! Signup can be done in 10 seconds right here at givegoodface.com.

Perks: Free email updates on Give Good Face and insider tips and tricks from the pros!

Pro Mafia Member:

To sign up for a Pro membership, you need to show us you’re a working makeup artist. You will need to submit, via email, a scan of your professional business card along with a tear sheet or website of your work (this includes modelmayhem and onemodelplace accounts).

Perks: All the perks of a Mafia Member, but you can also participate in makeup contests and pro events. You will also receive exclusive information from industry pros and deals from artist cosmetic lines.

VIP Mafia Member:

To sign up for a Pro membership, you need to show us you’re a working makeup artist. You will need to submit, via email, a scan of your professional business card along with a tear sheet or website of your work (this includes modelmayhem and onemodelplace accounts). VIP members also submit a photo of themselves wearing Give Good Face “Mafia Merchandise” to be featured on givegoodface.com. Upon approval, their photo will be tagged with their name and information in our hall of fame for the world to see. GGF gets 100k+ hits a month – now that’s some good free promo!

Perks: All the perks of a pro membership, plus your photo in the hall of fame!

Mafioso:

To sign up for a Mafioso membership, you need to show us you’re a working makeup artist. You will need to submit, via email, a scan of your professional business card along with a tear sheet or website of your work (this includes modelmayhem and onemodelplace accounts). Mafiosos also submit a photo of themselves with a celebrity wearing Give Good Face “Mafia Merchandise” to be featured on givegoodface.com. Upon approval, their photo will be tagged with their name and information in our hall of fame for the world to see.

Perks: All the perks of a pro membership, plus your photo featured in the hall of fame!

More details to come!

The term ‘natural’ is used more loosely, however. For a product to be labeled ‘natural,’ it only needs to consist of 3% natural products. Scary, right? Cosmetics have very few regulations, so always do your research before purchasing that perfectly fantastic red lipstick (that might just be carcinogenic). I digress.

With all the misinformation out there, I thought I’d demystify some home remedies and natural beauty tips makeup artists use every day! I asked readers of givegoodface.com, makeup artists from modelmayhem.com, and fans of the GGF facebook page to contribute their best beauty tips and tricks. Feel free to comment or email with your own natural beauty must-haves!

Theresa Amundsen, Makeup Artist: Theresa makes her own lip balm – how cool!

7 Tablespoons Coconut Oil (extra virgin, unrefined)
1 Tablespoon Cocoa Butter
40 Drops Vanilla or Sweet Orange Essential Oil (optional)

In a small pan over low heat warm the coconut oil and cocoa butter until the butter is just melted. Remove from heat and let cool for 15 minutes. Add the essential oil and stir to blend. Pour into storage container(s) and cap. Allow mixture to set for 2 hours.

Note: If your storage area is above 76 degrees the balm will liquify, it will harden again at a lower temperature. This balm is super silky and also makes great gifts!

Erin Chaney, Makeup Artist: Erin mixes granulated sugar with sesame or olive oil, creating the perfect lip scrub to tackle dead, dry skin! We’re anxious to try this before applying Theresa’s homemade balm.

Kelly DeMauro, Makeup Artist: Kelly makes a great lip/face/body scrub by mixing together equal parts fine sugar and honey! Use it on damp skin and it rinses away easily without stinging like salt scrubs!

Deadly Design Makeup soaks a cloth in white vinegar and lays it over red sunburn until the cloth gets warm. Then she re-soaks the cloth and repeats until the heat is gone. It doesn’t sting, either! Follow with a good moisturizer.

Davis Webb, Makeup Artist: Davis uses lemon juice in distilled or rose water for a fabulous toner! Restore your pH for a fraction of the cost!

Give Good Face loves big sexy hair! To give your hair extra volume, grab a bottle of flat beer – we’re not kidding! After shampooing, pour the beer over your head and let it soak in for two minutes before rinsing. Follow with conditioner to mask the scent of the beer. The beer tightens your cuticle and coats each strand, giving you healthier, shinier, more volumized hair!

Brandie Hopstein, Makeup Artist: Brandie calms red, irritated skin by using extra-virgin olive oil to clean off her makeup – great idea!

Jason Donovan, Reader: Jason gets his beauty on with a good night’s sleep and a lifestyle that is active – and smoke-free! Smoking and inactivity wreak havoc on your body. It’s summer, there’s no excuse not to get outside and be active, even if that only means walking the dog to the mailbox!

Carly Peacock, Model: Carly makes her own hair conditioning treatment, her secret to soft and shiny hair!

2 Eggs
7 Tablespoons (roughly 100ml) Olive Oil
1 Tablespoon Whole Egg mayonnaise
1 Blended Avocado
The Juice of 1 Lemon.

Blend ingredients, apply to hair and leave in overnight. Rinse in the morning.

Belle Morte, Wardrobe Stylist: Belle soothes sunburn with tea leaves in her bath water – how refreshing!

Give Good Face loves rose salve! Rose salve can be used as a lip balm or as an intense moisturizer for cuticles and dry patches. Also works great when dabbed in the center of the eyelids for a soft glossy eye!

Ernesto Casillas, Makeup Artist/Photographer: Ernesto is old school – drink lots of water! And we agree! Nothing is better for your body, inside and out. So ditch the diet coke and opt for a water with your meal!

Lauren Jamison, Reader: Lauren believes in healthy eating – and so do we! Eating dark leafy greens, and knowing your recommended caloric intake is so important. Give up on chocolate cake? Never. But limits are good to have!

Maria T-Eweka, Makeup Artist: We love to use yogurt as a face mask, but Maria mixes in honey and turmeric to give her mask some extra punch!

Sammi J, Makeup Artist: Sammi uses lavender oil to minimize the redness and pain of sunburn! We’ve never heard of this – but we’re anxious to try it out!

Laura Harrison, Makeup Artist: Laura also uses lavender oil to promote healing and reduce pesky cold sores!

Give Good Face refreshes the skin by putting chilled white tea in a spritzer. Spray your face throughout the day for a glowing, refreshed complexion! Feeling bold? Mix in a little witch hazel or olive oil.

Andrea, Model: Andrea conditions her hair with mayonnaise! Mayo gives the hair great moisture and shine at a fraction of the cost!

Mai Strickland, Makeup Artist: Mai hydrates the face with rosehip oil and the body with coconut oil – it’s simple and we love it!

Sheila Northcutt, Makeup Artist: Speaking of oils, Sheila mixes pure aloe gel (quarter size) with jojoba oil (pea size) to hydrate her face!

Davis Webb, Makeup Artist: Davis gave us the recipe to his alpha-hydroxy face mask – and we love it!

1 Avocado
1/2 Teaspoon Crushed Aspirin Powder
1 Tablespoon Olive Oil
2 Capsules Omega Fatty Acid

Mix well. Apply to face twice weekly. Rinse thoroughly with lemon juice in rose water. Thanks Davis!

Cordial Lee, Makeup Artist: Speaking of masks, Cordial makes her mask by mixing oatmeal powder mixed with lukewarm tea! She also loves using oatmeal in the bath to soothe dry skin.

Thanks to all the readers, makeup artists, and models who contributed their secrets!!!

Soft and Pretty: If you’re intimidated by color, warm taupes and soft pinks are wearable and wonderful in the spring and summer months (as seen in the 2010 Guerlain and Mercier collections). Try a warm caramel eyeshadow paired with a sheer petal pink lip and cheek for natural warmth!

1980’s Bright Eyes: The 80’s are back! We’ve seen it in pop culture, on the runways, and this spring we see it in Shu Uemura and Smashbox’s ‘Egerie’ and ‘Heartbreaker’ lines. Bold purples, teals, and pinks are dazzling this season if you’re not afraid to turn a few heads!

Pastels: Spring has always been sacred ground for pastels. This spring, try a pastel shadow to liven up (but not overpower) your look, or pair a few together a la YSL’s spring ad campaign.

Bold Lips: NARS, MAC, and Chanel (amongst others) are featuring bold, almost neon lip colors this year. Bold lips have always been a spring favorite of mine, and this year is no exception. If you have thin lips or are afraid of bright colors, try a sheer lip gloss in a bright shade to instantly brighten the complexion and enhance your lips!

Shimmer: Stila and Urban Decay introduced equally gorgeous shadows with micro-shimmer this spring. Forget chunky glitter, these shimmers are so fine, they look wet!

Beach Chic: MAC, Make Up For Ever, and Smashbox’s summer collections are bringing the heat this year! Glam golds, nudes, bronzes, corals, and champagnes give the skin an ethereal summer glow and are wearable to every occasion! Bronzer never goes out of style!

Smashbox.com

Urbandecay.com

Shuuemura.com

Narscosmetics.com

ysl.com

lauramercier.com

Chris Milone is a seasoned makeup artist whose work can be seen in films, music videos, and fashion magazines with credits to some of the biggest names in photography (and Hollywood) today.

Jordan Liberty, GGF: So I saw that the Sticky and Sweet Tour will be released on DVD, any chance we’ll see you there?

Chris Milone: I did saw of the behind-the-scenes footage, and there were a few shots where you could see me. Especially this scene when the president was elected and you can see me there with my Obama t-shirt on. That was in…San Diego I think.

GGF: What was your favorite part of the tour experience?

Chris: Definitely traveling the world, you know, seeing places I never would have thought of going.

GGF: I heard there was some unpleasantness in Romania when Madonna spoke out against gypsy discrimination.

Chris: [The media] blew that out of proportion, it was like 3 people booing in the crowd [laughs], it was nothing.

GGF: What was it like touring after the tragedy in Marsielle (On July 16, 2009, the stage collapsed killing two and injuring eight)?

Chris: They made an announcement, we were still in [pauses] Milan I think…we stayed an extra couple days there because that show was cancelled — obviously. Everyone kinda just walked around the next two weeks and it was really sad…even for Madonna.

GGF: What was your role on tour?

Chris: I was the makeup artist for the dancers and sometimes for the band and backup singers. Do you want me to run through a typical day?

Chris Milone in action!

GGF: Definitely.

Chris: Our day would usually start at ten or eleven [a.m.] and we’d go to the venue — wherever that may be. And then we’d setup our makeup room — wherever that may be. You know, mirrors, chairs and our products and stuff.

After lunch my job would be to set up the quick change under the stage so we could change the dancers during the show. While this is all happening the hair people are styling and washing the wigs and stuff.

Then we’d do dinner and afterwards the dancers would come in so we could start makeup for the show.

GGF: What were the makeup looks?

Chris: Um, they were pretty simple — thick black liner with brown shadow in the crease, lashes, and shimmer on the cheeks. No one was a carbon copy, each dancer’s makeup was unique to them, so they all looked their own way. Then during the show there were like seven or eight makeup changes that had to be done in like three minutes. Three of the changes were drastic. There would be like sometimes six people working on a single dancer at once. In the beginning it was scary, really scary, and we’d just make it on time. By the end we’d be finished with time to spare, twiddling our thumbs.

GGF: How big was the beauty team?

Chris: There were two makeup artists and three hair stylists. And there were separate wardrobe people for the girls and guys. So there were a lot of hands in the way.

GGF: How’d you score the job?

Chris: The head of my [previous] department called and asked if I wanted to work with Madonna. I was like ‘are you really asking me this [laughs]? Umm, yeah.’

GGF: Did you meet and canoodle with Madonna? Do tell.

Chris: Yes I did, she had invited the hair and makeup team and dancers to movie night at her hotel and a boat ride with her in Norway. It was fun. Music and drinks and what not — it was a good time. I liked her.

GGF: What are some of the less-glamorous things about touring as a makeup artist?

Chris: Oy! There’s a lot of less glamour things. Well, lugging your luggage around all over the world sucks. Being up at the crack of dawn to catch a van to an airport to catch a flight…the traveling part is really what sucks. Oh — and finding a place to do your laundry!

GGF: Did you have any cool backstage run-ins?

Chris: Umm… In Milan miss Gaga was there along with Valentino. They were down in front row. And I saw her quickly backstage and I was leaving and she said ‘hello.’

GGF: Who do you think would win in a fight – Madonna or Gaga and why?

Chris: [Laughs aloud] Hmm… I don’t know, that’s a tough one! I’m not sure who would win, but that would be some fight. It would be legendary.

GGF: What was your must-have on set?

Chris: Nars velvet matte lip pencils in ‘cruella’ and ‘dragon girl.’

GGF: Oh I love those!

Chris: Mm-hmm, and the Shu Uemura liquid liner pen.

GGF: What is your advice to young artists who wish to follow in your footsteps?

Chris: Network! You never know who you’re going to meet. Always have your cards and info on you — and don’t take every single job because you just wanna work. Make sure it will benefit you. You know, the finished product.

GGF: Your favorite designer?

Chris: Hmmm um, right now I’m liking Marc Jacobs a lot.

GGF: Boxers or briefs?

Chris: Boxer briefs.

GGF: I’m gonna count that as briefs.

Chris: Fine.

GGF: What, in your opinion, is the most notoriously bad makeup trend?

Chris: I think those teenage girls that wear too much black liner. You can’t even see their eyes they have so much liner on.

GGF: What’s your current favorite look?

Chris: I definitely like dewy skin. I just like that dewy, glowy, shimmery look. It’s so modern. I should probably change that soon, but I just love it. Love it, love it, love it.

GGF: The best part of your job?

Chris: It’s really about creativity and expression. I can express myself by making someone beautiful. It’s just a good feeling…

http://www.chrismilonemakeup.com/

The new line of liquid foundation consists of eighteen oil-free shades, six of which are corrective tones that help you to create an unlimited range of customized colors. They are housed in squeeze tubes for convenience, but the removable tips allow for faster mixing. At just $12.50 CAN (About $12.00 USD), the 8.5 ml (1/4oz) tubes really are the perfect size and price for makeup artists.

At first glance, the colors were a little jarring (separated into pink, neutral, and golden tones), which further proved that this is a line that really relies on artistry – meaning your foundations need to be mixed to maximize results. ‘Buff’ is a gorgeous neutral that tones down other colors well (and actually looks fabulous when I wear it alone as a foundation). ‘Daisy’ is a must-have corrector. This white shade is great for lightening other colors, and has quickly become a go-to product for me on set.

Once you’ve created your unique foundation shade, application is a treat. This foundation glides effortlessly over the skin, providing full coverage without the cakey look of heavier formulas. The finish isn’t overly shiny or matte, which makes it easy to customize with a setting powder or lumizer.

Bottom line? This is a great option for liquid lovers. And while I’m not a huge fan of mixing (I think the line needs just a few more shades), the results speak for themselves. At $12.00 this foundation packs a mighty punch, rivaling its competitors bearing price tags in the high $30’s. Another big win for this small Canadian line!

You can find this fabulous foundation along with many other great products on the Yaby website.